Mark Whiting found himself strangely drawn to Pau and the Barn region. He reveals what will be open to Stansted passengers when Ryanair starts its new route there later this month

This part of France doesn't really have a rush hour.

Sure, there are vehicles on the motorway, but when the idea of congestion on a typical evening is 12 vehicles or more nearby, its difficult to be concerned.

Picture-book charms the pretty town of Oloron Sainte-Marie

Something the Barn region of France is keen to emphasise is that it doesn't 'do' stressed.

The region is part of the Basque area which straddles France and Spain, and lies in the shadow of the Pyrenees.

But while some flying in may only have skiing on their minds, there's a lot more to Barn than its pistes.

Already regular flights come into the region via Biarritz airport, but there will soon be the chance to visit via the new £10m terminal at Pau airport, which welcomes a new Ryanair service from Stansted from April 30.

Thanks in part to a pleasing micro-climate where temperatures jump from a bracing one or two degrees first thing, to into the mid-20s by lunchtime, the region has a gentle charm all its own, with the emphasis on tranquility.

In fact the only time I saw any of our French hosts grow concerned was if they thought we were not enjoying fully what the region has to offer.

We started in Orthez, ancient capital of Barn, which can trace its roots back to the history of Gascony and the Kingdom of Navarre - the birthplace of Henry IV, whose life is chronicled at the nearby castle in Pau.

It is also one of several areas in the region where you can try some slightly more energetic pursuits, with a range of watersports available.

Salies-de-Bearn is famous for its salt

Barn has a strong British influence, with rugby and golf among the sports imported, and horse-racing is a big draw here, too, with the Pau Hippodrome providing an impressive 10,000-seat stadium for fans of its flat racing and steeplechasing.

The region was the destination of choice for the Brits in the 19th century, and Winston Churchill is among those said to have spent time here.

Sitting outside and looking out across to the Pyrenees from one of the many bed and breakfast accommodations hidden away in the French hills, it's easy to see why he enjoyed the area so much.

Those looking for a relaxing time can spend it in the spa and health resort in 'Salt Town' - Salies-de-Barn. Today the town's salt is still exported around the world.

But this claim to fame is probably overshadowed by nearby Oloron Sainte-Marie, which carries the unusual title of 'Beret capital of the world.'

As well as producing the famous headwear at a local factory, the town also boasts chocolate producers Lindt as a major employer.

Imposing - Orthez used to be the region's capital

Just down the road, Pau is keen to tempt the businessmen, with its jewel in the crown being the Le Palais Beaumont conference centre.

A successful track record for the restored historical site, which also features a casino, includes more than 43,000 delegates attending 258 events in 2002.

Mindful of new technology, the centre is soon to install wireless internet access, and doubtless it too will benefit from the new Stansted-Pau route just as much as the tourist trade.

But enough thoughts of work.

Pushing any thoughts of diets from the mind there is an opportunity to taste the garbure soup - a mix of potato cabbage and various meats - and the confit de canard (conserve of duck). Both are dishes from the region.

Naturally these are all accompanied with the local wines - Juranon Blanc, dubbed 'the wine of kings' by locals, and Madiran Rouge.

Perhaps the one disappointment of this visit was that throughout a three-day stay, the Pyrenees refused to reveal their full splendour, remaining largely hidden behind the mists.

It seems only gradually do the mountains unveil themselves.

But as has already been noted, when you're in this part of the world, there's no need to rush.