THIS week is the 20th anniversary of an event to celebrate one of the UK’s food specialities – fish and chips.

National Fish and Chip Shop week celebrates one of Britain’s longest culinary institutions, with the chippy going from strength to strength.

Recent television shows, such as Channel 4’s Big Fish Fight, have kept one of Britain’s oldest traditions in the national psyche.

Tim Skinner, owner of Skinner’s Fish and Chips, in Great Clacton, is the third generation of chip shop workers in his family and has been in the trade for more than 30 years.

He said: “The industry has changed enormously. It has improved massively, in terms of hygiene, presentation, marketing and things like that.

“It used to be the sort of business people might take on when they retired, but now it’s a career choice.”

David Henley, owner of Henley’s Fish and Chips in Wivenhoe and Braintree, thinks big chains have had an impact on chip shops.

He said: “With competition from McDonald’s, we had to raise our game to compete.

“Windows would be steamed up and people would lick their fingers as they wrapped up the fish and chips. That’s all had to go.”

However, it’s not all about the big brands. Both Tim and David agree the success of the chippy is partly because of its ties with the community. Mr Skinner said: “The majority of fish and chip shops are independently owned – there are only one or two big chains.

“They are very small businesses and we have to give just as good a service, if not better than, the Harry Ramsden’s and McDonald’s of our industry.”

Mr Henley said: “Being part of the community events is important. We sponsor cricket matches and provide raffle prizes, while making sure our shop fits in with the area and is kept tidy.

“Tastes can change across the country.

“McDonald’s is pretty much the same in Moscow or London.

“But you can’t do that with fish and chips.

“What wo-rks in Manchester won’t necessarily work in Colchester, so big chains can’t compete with small independent shops.”

Sourcing produce locally – and from sustainable sources – is also becoming more and more important, as TV programmes, such as the Big Fish Fight, have an impact on people’s attitudes.

Mr Skinner added: “I know myself and others put on a mackerel bap after the show, but it didn’t show the industry has been offering alternatives for 20 or more years.

“Owners have been trying to sell different types of fish. No one’s happy about discarding good fish or EU fishing policy.

“At the end of the day, the public know what they like and it’s a bit naive to think they will swap over and make that choice.

“It’s good to offer something different, like pollock, though.”

Mr Henley said he thought the business was still changing.

He added: “I think people will look to healthier options. People might have a garden salad or jacket potato instead of chips.

“It will still be fish and chips but there will be differences – different fish, fish cooked in different ways, maybe grilled or steamed. People are more conscious about what they eat.”

He also thinks there will be a more modern approach to the shop itself.

Mr Henley removed the interior walls of his shop, so customers could see the whole process, from peeling and chipping potatoes, to the quality of the fish before it is battered. Fish and chips is a cheap option for takeaway meals, making it a recession buster.

Mr Skinner said: “Fish and chips has gone up in price, but is on average say £5 to £6.

“It’s extremely good value compared to other takeaways, such as a pizza or Chinese food.”